30 October at 12.00 we met the other 24 participants and the guide from Albatros Travel at CopenhagenAirport.
Soon after we checked in and just had to wait for our flight.
Due to crying kids we did not get much sleep on the 10 hour long flight to Bangkok and later 1, 5 hour flight from Bangkok to Yangon.
Day 1 in Myanmar, Yangon – 31.10.2013
We arrived to Yangon at around 6.00 a.m. local time. We knew that it was going to be a long day caused by jet lag and tiredness after long trip.
After some minor chaos with handling over passport, immigration papers and the pre-prepared visa application we finally got our passport back and could pass the controls. Luckily al our luggage also had arrived so in fact no reason for carrying all our running gear in our hand luggage the entire way. Our local guide was waiting us and short after our group of 27 persons were in the bus and on the way to the hotel.
At the Traders Hotel only part of our rooms were ready. We got our room and after a short shower we felt a little more awake and went to the reception at 13.00. We went with the bus to the lunch break where we also for first time tried the local beer called Myanmar. After a stressing lunch when we had less than an hour to finish our meal we went by bus to a temple where the 67 meter long, South Asia longest statue of Buddha is laying.
After a walk of some 100 meter we even managed to find a toilet. This was at a private house with separate toilet for foreigners – most probably this was the toilet with sitting option but no toilet paper! Now we understood why the left hand is called the dirty one! Well good we did not have such need!
After another drive – when most people felt asleep – we stopped at the Shwedagon Pagoda – the most important religious pilgrimage site in the country. Local authorities claims it is more than 2500 years old when experts say that it most probably is built around 600 After BC. It has 8 corners – one for each day a week. Wednesday is counted as two days in Buddhist calendar!
Wednesday is divided into two days.
On the picure: Greta lights a light at the Monday corner – she was born on Monday.
Buddhists are coming to pray at the corner of their birthday’s day of the week. It is the most holy place for Buddhists in Myanmar as three things from the first Buddha is here: his walking stick, eight hairs, and part of his dress. On our way around the fantastic building Greta and Jesper were stopped by two monks who were practicing English with help of English-speaking tourists.
They asked where we came from and also wanted picture taken with Jesper.
Surprisingly they shook hands and openly talked also with Greta but could not have a picture with woman.
After an hour walking on our bare feet at Golden Pagoda we again went back to our bus. It was time for a nice dinner.
On our way back to the hotel we stopped for a while in front of the Lady Aung San Suu Kyi’s house. It is now empty as the Lady has moved to the new capital Pyinmana which are the political center in Myanmar.
At around 20.45 we were back at the hotel and short after sleeping – finally.
Day 2 Bagan – 01.11.2013
Alarm clock waking us up at 03.30! Showering, packing the last and at 04.30 sitting in the bus with breakfast box on our way back to the airport.
Luggage have been delivered to the airport, we went through security check.
No comments to liquid and electronic equipment. Pictures:YangonAirport
No comments regarding liquids in our hand luggage. No call out to the gate. Just we have got a label on our T-shirts showing the logo of the company we should flight with. Later we got our boarding passes to the Bagan Air with departure 06.15 meaning 06.45
Serving on board: first a drink and a small meal including Danish pastry with coffee and tea and some sweets before landing at 08.00!!! Who could see such a luxury on short distance flight in Europe?
We were picked up by an old bus and went the 30 minutes ride to our hotel Myanmar Treasure in Bagan. On our way most probably all of us got goose bumps when we saw the enormous street promotion for our marathon.
After unpacking our stuff we went shopping on the local market. We bought water, bananas, local home-made sweets of sugar palms and nuts.
Late afternoon we took the bus to see the sunset from the high HtilominloTemple. It was a real climbing as some steps were 50-60 cm high and Greta wore long dress. We got some amazing pictures from the top!
Then time for dinner and getting our start package. Greta got number 203 and Jesper 12!
Back to the hotel and trying finally to get some sleep before the big day.
Day 3– Bagan Race day 02.11.2013
After a night waking up several times just to check what time it was the alarm clock rang at 04.10.
Time for a banana, some water and get dressed. A light breakfast at 4.45 and at 05.30 we were all in the bus and on the way to the start area. Soon after we could see the impressive HtilominloTemple were both start and finish should be. Some small talk with other runners, pictures with Japanese
and Danes – we were ready. Sun came up behind the temples and the same did some 7 big balloons – stunning view in the rising sun. Unfortunately picture does not show real colors and nuances of light pink on the sky.
Around 06.45 we were asked to go to the starting point and were short welcomed by the minister of Tourism and Sport from Myanmar. Then we ran our distances. That is a pity that we could not start the run already around 6 a.m.; to avoid the whole hour of boiling heat from the sky.
The run:
We started to run through the sandy path among bushes and fields with many temples around us all the time through the first 20 km. Just after one kilometer from start line we realized first challenge a „river” of mud. We were forced to jump over the deepest water. The result – wet mud in socks! Soon after some sandy area Jesper could feel that wet mud and sand was mixed in his shoes – at this stage he realized that Bagan Temple Marathon was not a regular one!
Passing a corner and you had to stop for an oxcart- with the long horns; they for sure had the first right to pass.
Several local people inclusive small kids were already out waving and smiling.
Around 11 km it was time to divide the routes and Jesper ran after the black arrows indicating full marathon. It was going through agriculture area and small villages.
Roads surface were gravel or deep sand!
The temperature became over 35°C and in direct sun even over 40°C.
One of the most impressive experiences was a very small village where all people sat outside. During the run we have learnt to say “hello” in Burma people language. It is pronounced: “minga laba”.
The worst was the village “highway” – 15-20 cm deep sand and together with the heat it was like hell.
At that stage (even after only some 18 km) Jesper had no energy to run and by walking fast the time lost would be minimal.
When the route was not sand slow running was possible but the last 15-16 km it was really just walking with significant pain in right foot as a sign that big blisters was on its way.
When having 6-7 km left the marathon route again hit the half marathon route as a sign that this run soon would be over. When having few hundred meters left Jesper could see Greta waiting at a corner playing cheer leader.
Here came the last corner around the HtilominloTemple and to the finish line – with the last forces and biting the pain the last 250 meter was done in running. Passing the finish line and finally feeling the weight of the impressive medal.
The run was done. 5 hours 55 minutes it took Jesper to become number 31 of 44 finishing men at the marathon distance. Greta ran her first half marathon in 3 hours and 40 minutes and finnished as number 34 of 38 participating women but most probably the one with most pictures in her camera taken on the route.
Greta was amazingly fresh and happy after her first half marathon. For sure her 5 time per week training during 6 weeks before the run helped to build her general condition. The hardest for her was the last kilometer.
The day before the run we talked about clothing on the route. In fact there is no good clothing when is that hot; does not matter how little cloth you wear. After 5 minutes run all was wet. For sure our white technical T-shirts, white hats and sun blocker 50+ helped to fight sunburn and cold water every 4km helped against sunstroke and water loss on the way to finish line. Greta used cold water on her neck every 4 km. It gave cooling effect together with cold energy drink. It is worth to mention that Endomondo application worked on the route in Burma and helped to keep control on the route with time and distance.
It was extremely hard for both of us to move quickly during the run. High humidity and temperature over 40 degrees made the strong impact on all the runners.
Greta made plenty of fantastic pictures which we now can share with others.
Last runner from our group crossed over the finish line just some 3 minutes before cut off time!!!
We came back to the hotel for showers and to check injures of our feet. Taking care of blisters hereof one some 5 cm in diameter straight on the heel!
We have sent e-mail with information to kids and friends.
The evening went on swimming in the pool, enjoying beer and other liquids and relaxing talk with the rest of the group. We have learned that some runners received water with electrolytes directly to the veins through the drip; some have got stitches after fall and other who were suffering from the heat and strangling with the distance.
Anyway most of them were happy that they managed to reach to the finish line. Nevertheless running experience all runners were going with strange manner because of pain in hips and legs muscles.
We went early to bed after long and active day.
Day 4 Bagan– 03.11.2013
We refused to go for a planned trip and slept to 8.00 a.m. then ate breakfast and got some relax at the poolside.
In the afternoon we went to the village for sightseeing and lunch at a local restaurant Green Elephant. On the way back we met 3 kids and after some pictures and nice talk we had to buy some homemade postcards for one dollar to each kid.
In the evening we had the after-run victory dinner party. The party was a great event with speeches, shows, food and a free bar.
All top 3 runners came from Myanmar and Greta managed to get a picture of Jesper with all the fantastic local runners and the Sports and Tourism Minister of Myanmar.
Together with some Mexicans and Americans the Danish group was the last to leave. We were dancing until 1.00 a.m. Before sleeping we packed a little bit to be prepared for leaving next morning at 8.00 a.m.
Day 5 Mt Popa – Mandalay- 04.11.2013:
We stood up at 6.00 a.m. to say goodbye to people from our group who ended the trip already that day and should go home to Denmark, Sweden and Norway. Then we packed and ate breakfast.
Around 8.00 in the morning we left the hotel for driving to the holy Mt.Popa – some 777 steps with a lot of monkeys sitting aside the whole way up to the temple on the top.
Here we should walk up the stairs with bare feet – for sure healthy for our suffering feet with the monkey shit on the stairs! View from the top of the hill were fantastic!
Before we entered the temple we got to know that Buddhist life has three stages: education, create family and finally the religious part. Therefore there are that many temples in Myanmar. All believe that if they build temple – there shall be bigger chance to be closer to nirvana stage, which means less reincarnation stages.
At around 13.00 we ate the lunch at a small local restaurant where near the house grow dragoon fruits on cactuses. Afterwards we continued our way to Mandalay.
Generally the countryside was very green and people looks to live a silent modest life at their small farms.
On the way to Mt Popa we have had one stop at a place where alcohol and sweets are made of sugar palms and nuts.
Day 6 – Mandalay, Amarapura 05.11.2013:
At 8.00 we should leave the hotel with a bus. It could not start. We went by two trucks for visiting the world longest teak
bridge U Bein with its 1,2 km length and more than one hundred years old.
We were spectators to the morning ceremony of giving the only meal to monks from the Mahagandayon Monastery where there is place for more than 1000 monks and nuns…..
Then we went to the Mahamuni Temple and Kuthodaw Temple with the world largest book in form of Buddha’s words written on 729 stones each of them put into a white alter.
Hereafter we went to the AyeyarwadyRiver where we got some gorgeous pictures of the people living at river side. They received in the past plot of land but instead of settle down they sold the plot and moved back to their life around the river.
At the end of the day we went to the Mandalay Hill where we could admire the sunset. Escalators took us up on the 5th floor and the view was great.
The evening we spent packing and went to bed without dinner as the monks.
Day 7 – Inle Lake 06.11.2013:
Up at 4.30. Breakfast at 5.00 luggage out and ready to leave the hotel at 06.15.
Flight Mandalay -Heho was a good experience with a very nice service aboard.
At Heho airport the bus drive us to the marina at the beginning of InleLake.
The fishermen have a special way of rowing – they stand up and use their leg to navigate the boat! This way they have both arms free.
It was amazing to see how people lived in houses on piles
and with soil moved up so they can grow vegetables such as tomatoes and wild potatoes – called the floating gardens.
We visited a silver smith and after that a weaving manufactory which has been family own during generations
At around 17.00 we arrived to Amata Hotel where our motor-powered canoes were parked. We were now a part of boat no. 5 crew with Signe and Michael. We ate at the hotel and went early to bed.
Day 8 – Indein by the Inle Lake 07.11.2013:
Up at 6.30 to have breakfast at 07.00. The boats picked us up at 08.00 and first stop was the village Indein at the west bank of the lake where some 1050 pagodas were standing next to each other giving us some fantastic pictures.
On the way back to boats we did some shopping and talked with all the nice people.
Our boat was the last to leave but short after we found two our boats standing on sand.
Tage and one person more tried to help getting boats sailing again by jumping in the water. Later we were told that on one boat propel fall of and flew into the boat and made marks on the side and at one chair!
Next stop silk production place. Family owned business and we saw how lotus stalks were changed into tread.
Imported silk was prepared and coloring was done in chemicals without protection on hands. After this it was time for lunch. Before leaving we went looking at some nice lotus flowers.
It was time for some sailing among the village before having a stop at the boat yard. One boat of teak cost only 1500 USD.
Next stop cigar manufacturing
Back to the hotel and relax with a book.
Most of our group has at this stage had serious problems with stomach so we decided for a light dinner with sharing a pizza. We ordered green tea and cola. We asked for a pizza Margarita to share. The waiter went off and came short after back asking if we were ready to order food??? We told that we ordered already the pizza – then she ran away. Most probably she understood that we wanted the drink Margarita to share.
Early to bed after packing most of our stuff.
Day 9 – Kalaw 08.11.2013
Alarm clock rang at 5.00 and after putting our suitcases out we could leave for a light breakfast.
At 7.00 we went into our boats
Our crew members Signe and Michael was also ready for new adventure.
Our morning return trip to the main marina took around one hour.
After a short bus drive we arrived to the train station where we should have a 2, 5 hour experience with Myanmar fast train!
Our local guide managed to convince the train station manager that we deserved the very best – meaning here journey in “Upper class” compartments.
Very narrow and curvy rails we had to be careful when taking pictures out of the „windows”. In Heho we had a break to buy some stuff for rest of our trip.
The train rocked us well and we felt like being sailing on Baltic Sea in stormy weather!
After the train trip the bus picked us up and drove us to the very last Pagoda on our trip around Myanmar.
It was now time for Greta to meet the local nuns
when the monks try not to look.
Then to Kalaw – a very colorful small village with English colonial touch.
Here we visited the local marked with food, textiles etc. Later after visiting the local market we enjoyed the really cold local beer in a small teashop with the company of Signe and Michael and were looking at people passing through.
This night we stayed at Dream Villa at Kalaw. We might have dreamt but certainly the hotel should change its name J Room was cold and beds hard like rocks.
Day10-12 Ngapali Beach – 09.-12.11.2013:
Up at 5.00 a.m., bus at 6.15 and departure for HehoAirport.
Finally our lazy days on the beach started that day! NgapaliBeach waited for us!
Look at the pictures – no words are needed to explain the last 2,5 days
She served us coconuts every day. We called her Fruit Lady or Restaurant on the Head. Jesper tried to lift the tray with fruits – it was very heavy and that little lady could carry it on the head without help.
A great and fantastic trip to Myanmar ended.
Greta and Jesper